We land in Brunei from Kota Kinabalu, Sabah state in Malaysia. Before dawn, we drive with Latvian Inga, who has lived on the island of Borneo for more than two decades. Inga heads the exotic tourism agency “Bornean Vanda Travel” and organizes routes to the most remote and interesting places on the island.
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The journey to Brunei takes about five hours, but it does not feel long. Sometimes I doze off, sometimes I watch the tropical forests passing by outside the window and families of macaques playing by the roadside. At noon, we stop at the border, show our passports, and soon we are enjoying the views on the Brunei side. “Most people come here for just one day and then regret not staying longer,” Inga smiles.
The golden mosque above the lagoon
Another hour, and we are already in the capital Bandar Seri Begawan. The city looks unusually calm. There is none of the typical Asian big city chaos, no motorcycles are heard. The wide streets are almost empty, golden domes rise above the trees.
Everything in this country is about three times more expensive.
We buy Brunei dollars for more than three Malaysian ringgits and soon notice that everything in this country is about three times more expensive than in neighboring Malaysia. Maybe that’s why tourists don’t stay long in Brunei. However, there are many advantages here – the streets are very clean, no litter is thrown around, and order prevails everywhere. People are calm, slow, as if on vacation, although it is Tuesday – a working day.
From the wide street on the Brunei riverbank, we turn to the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien mosque – one of the country’s most famous symbols. The white marble building stands in an artificial lagoon and looks as if suspended above the water. The dome glistens in the sun, making you squint. At sunset, the mosque turns pink, and the lagoon’s surface is decorated with a mirror reflection. Even locals stop to admire and take photos.
The city on the water
After a brief tropical rain, we board a motorboat. It jumps over the waves and after a few minutes drops us off at Kampong Ayer – one of the largest stilt settlements in the world. The place resembles a wooden city above the water. Houses, schools, mosques, shops, and even a fire station stand on supports above the river. Long wooden walkways stretch between them.
It’s hard to believe this settlement is over a thousand years old.
Walking through the wooden city, I look around to see what the residents are doing. Children ride bicycles, women water flowers in pots, men repair boats. A teenager plays on a tablet. The smell of cooking food comes from one house’s veranda, and from another house, a television can be heard through the window.
It’s hard to believe this settlement is over a thousand years old. When old houses rot, they are quickly replaced by new ones. Previously, most of Brunei’s population lived here. It is still said that this is the true heart of Brunei.
Searching for proboscis monkeys
As the sun sets, more and more birds are seen above the river, and the evening jungle chorus awakens in the mangroves. We go down the river to look for wild animals. The boat cuts through the dark water, dense mangroves on both sides of the banks look like a green wall. According to guides, Brunei’s forests are among the best preserved on the entire island of Borneo.
The boat driver slows down and points to the treetops. At first, I see only leaves, then I notice movement. A brownish-gray animal with a large nose sits on a branch. It is a proboscis monkey, called Proboscis or Nasalis larvatus on the island. After a few minutes, we spot a whole family of proboscis monkeys. Females with young clumsily jump between branches, a large male watches our boat.
Proboscis monkeys live only on the island of Borneo and only where swamps and lagoons stretch along the coasts. Males’ noses are especially long, flat, and curved, some reaching up to ten centimeters. They need long noses to attract females. The longer the nose, the deeper and richer the male’s voice. And the more impressive the male presents himself, the better impression he leaves on the female. Also – it scares off competitors.
Compared to macaques, proboscis monkeys are quiet and slow. However, unlike many monkeys, they can swim and are not afraid of water or crocodiles. To escape leopards and pythons, they sleep in trees above rivers. Therefore, proboscis monkeys are easiest to see in nature by traveling along rivers.
Wealth from oil
In Brunei, it is impossible to avoid the topic of oil, which has made this small state famous worldwide. Huge oil and natural gas deposits lie beneath the jungles and the South China Sea floor. They turned Brunei into one of the richest countries in the world in the 20th century.
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Driving through the capital’s streets, many signs of this wealth are visible. Brunei’s road infrastructure is well maintained, many residents drive new cars. The state provides various social guarantees to its citizens. Locals say that for many years there was no income tax in the country, and education and healthcare are available to all citizens.
Huge oil and natural gas deposits lie beneath.
But the true luxury of Brunei is hidden behind high fences and royal gates. From the road, we see only part of the largest residential palace buildings in the world, Istana Nurul Iman. Yellow domes shine among the palm trees, and security vigilantly watches the surroundings.
The sultan’s fabulous wealth
The current sultan of the country, Hassanal Bolkiah, is often mentioned among the richest monarchs in the world. Locals speak about him respectfully and reservedly. Here, the monarchy remains an important part of daily life.
The fairy-tale-like sultan’s palace has almost 1800 rooms, dozens of marble-decorated halls, huge banquet spaces, stables for royal horses. Even those who have seen the most luxurious hotels in the world find it hard to comprehend the scale of the residence. Brunei residents joke that in some parts of the palace, one can get lost like in a small city.
Legends also circulate about the sultan’s car collection. It is said that thousands of cars stand in his garages – from rare Rolls-Royce and Bentley models to vehicles specially made for the royal family. Some cars are covered in gold or decorated with unique handmade elements.
The current sultan of the country, Hassanal Bolkiah, is often mentioned among the richest monarchs in the world.
In Brunei, not only the scale of wealth is striking. Even more noticeable is the contrast between royal luxury and the everyday life of people outside the palace walls. In the evenings, families walk along the riverbank with children, fishermen patiently wait for a catch, and the imam’s call to prayer sounds over the city.
A small country with a glorious past
Today, Brunei occupies only a small part of the island of Borneo, but a few centuries ago, the Brunei sultanate was one of the most powerful states in Southeast Asia. In the 15th–16th centuries, its influence extended far beyond the current borders. Brunei rulers controlled long Borneo coasts and trade routes used by merchants from China, Arabia, India, and other Asian countries.
Islam came to Brunei around the 14th century and quickly became an important part of the state’s identity. Trade in spices, forest products, and other valuable goods brought huge wealth, and ships from distant lands constantly docked in Brunei’s ports.
Later, the sultanate’s power began to weaken. Europeans had a great influence on the region, and in the 19th century, Brunei became a British protectorate. Despite this, the monarchy remained. The sultan today is the most important political and spiritual authority in the country.
Brunei declared full independence only in 1984. Since then, the country has rapidly developed while striving to preserve traditions. Today, it is a modern, wealthy country where the influence of history, religion, and monarchy is still strongly felt.
About Brunei
Brunei Darussalam is located in the northwest of the island of Borneo and borders the Malaysian state of Sarawak. The country’s capital is Bandar Seri Begawan. It is most convenient to visit Brunei while traveling through the Malaysian Borneo region. The currency of Brunei – the Brunei dollar (BND) – corresponds to 68 euro cents. Many of the country’s residents speak English.
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